Table of Contents
Getting Ready for the Clutch Swap
Before you even touch the engine, you need to plan the job. The narrator explains that he had to film, edit, and upload three Sundays’ worth of videos while on holiday, so the timing was tight. He’s flying back from Florida and has only a few hours to get the clutch set up before the engine is back in the car. That urgency means you should gather all the parts and tools beforehand, so you’re not scrambling on the shop floor.
Replacing the Slave Cylinder and Related Parts
The first step is to replace the worn slave cylinder. The old unit was corroded, so a new one was installed. Along with the cylinder, the author swapped out all the washers, nuts, bolts, and the mounting plate. He also painted the mounting plate to keep the paint job clean. A new clutch hose and a new brake pipe were fitted, and the master cylinder was left unchanged because it was still in good condition.
Adjusting the Verto Clutch
Unlike older Pre‑Verto clutches that require free‑play adjustment, the Verto system is self‑adjusting. The only adjustment needed is the end‑stop or throw‑out stop. If this is set too far, the clutch can be thrown out too far and damage the housing. The author describes a simple procedure: tighten the mounting plate, secure the slave cylinder, and then adjust the end‑stop nut until the clutch arm is just touching the thrust bearing. He uses a feeler gauge to achieve the 6.5 mm clearance, which is the manufacturer’s specification.
Bleeding the Brake System
Bleeding the brakes is a critical part of the job. The narrator admits that he is a one‑man crew and that bleeding can be tricky. He explains the standard “down‑lock‑up‑unlock” method and notes that a second person helps keep the pressure steady. He also mentions that twisted brake hoses can restrict fluid flow and cause uneven braking. The author tried to bleed the system but ran into air trapped between seals. He describes a pressure‑bleeding technique that forces fluid back into the master cylinder, but ultimately he decided to persevere and leave the system to bleed overnight.
"I am just going to bleed it up now." – Narrator
After several attempts, the clutch arm moved smoothly and the engine engaged when the clutch pedal was released. The author confirms that the clutch is working, even though the brake system still needs a final bleed.
Cleaning Up and Safety Reminders
Brake fluid is highly hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water. The narrator warns that any spill should be wiped up with water and not left on newly painted surfaces. He advises against leaving brake fluid on paint such as Hammerite, which can cause paint to pickle. He also notes that the bulkhead is fine, but painted areas should be cleaned promptly.
"I will go around now and just clean everything up because I've spilled a bit of brake fluid." – Narrator
With the clutch installed and the brakes bleeding, the job is complete. The narrator encourages viewers to check the clutch lever arm for proper clearance and to ensure the brake pedal feels firm. He reminds readers to give the video a thumbs‑up and subscribe for more maintenance tips.
Final Thoughts
Replacing a Verto clutch on a Mini is a manageable task if you follow a clear sequence: replace the slave cylinder, adjust the end‑stop, bleed the brakes, and clean up any spills. The key is to keep the system free of air and to verify that the clutch arm has the correct clearance. By taking the time to do each step carefully, you’ll avoid costly damage and enjoy a smooth, responsive clutch for years to come.