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Engine oil changes are the gateway skill for any DIY mechanic. They are affordable, repeatable, and give you intimate knowledge of your own car. Japanese mechanic videos on YouTube — from seasoned workshop professionals to home-garage enthusiasts — have turned the humble oil change into a rite of passage for new DIYers. What makes these videos so useful is that they go beyond just 'loosen, drain, refill': they walk through tool selection, safety steps, method choices, torque values, and even what to do with the dirty oil when you are done. This article distills the key lessons those videos teach, so you can tackle your first oil change with confidence.
Tools and Parts You Need Before You Start
The videos consistently emphasise: gather everything before you lift the car. Running back and forth to the garage shelf with oily hands is a recipe for spills and frustration. Here is the standard shopping list the videos recommend.
- Engine oil — correct grade (e.g. 0W-20, 5W-30) and quantity for your engine. Always check your owner's manual — do not guess.
- Oil filter — buy the exact part number for your car. Many videos stress: cheap no-name filters are false economy. Use OEM or a trusted aftermarket brand.
- Drain plug washer (ドレンワッシャー) — a new aluminium or copper crush washer every single time. Reusing the old one is one of the most common causes of leaks shown in the videos.
- Drain plug wrench — correct size socket (commonly 14 mm, 17 mm, or 19 mm — check your car). A torque wrench is strongly recommended.
- Oil filter wrench — a cup-type or band-type wrench matched to your filter diameter.
- Oil drain pan — large enough for your engine's capacity plus a little extra.
- Nitrile gloves and shop rags — used oil is a known carcinogen; protect your skin.
- Jack stands or drive-up ramps — for bottom-drain method. See the safety note below.
- Extraction pump (ハンドポンプ / 電動ポンプ) — for top-suction method only.
- Funnel — to refill without spilling on the engine.
Many videos also recommend having a marker or piece of tape to note the date and mileage on the oil filter itself — a practical trick from seasoned mechanics.
Top-Suction (上抜き) vs Bottom-Drain (下抜き): Which Should You Choose?
- •No jacking required — car stays flat
- •Fast setup
- •Works in apartment car parks
- •May leave sludge at pan bottom
- •Filter change still needs undercar access
- •Impossible on some engine layouts
- •Empties oil pan completely
- •Removes sludge and sediment
- •Easy to change filter at the same time
- •Requires jack stands or ramps
- •Slightly longer setup time
- •Standard method used by professionals
This is one of the most debated topics in Japanese DIY mechanic videos, and the discussion is genuinely useful. The two methods differ fundamentally in how the old oil is removed from the engine.
Top-suction (上抜き) uses a hand pump or electric pump inserted down the dipstick tube to suck the oil out from above. The car stays flat on the ground — no jacking required. This is the method many apartment-dwellers and those without ramps reach for first.
Bottom-drain (下抜き) is the traditional workshop method: raise the car, remove the drain plug from the oil pan beneath the engine, and let gravity do the work. Almost every professional mechanic video defaults to this approach.
The videos make clear that neither method is universally 'better' — they suit different situations. Key points from the discussions:
- Bottom-drain is generally considered more complete: it removes sediment and sludge that settles at the bottom of the pan, which a suction pump cannot reach.
- Top-suction is faster to set up and safer if you lack proper lifting equipment. However, it cannot replace the oil filter, so filter changes still require going underneath — making a hybrid approach common.
- Some engine designs (e.g. with a baffle plate or offset dipstick tube) make top-suction difficult or impossible. Check your specific model in the videos before committing.
- Both methods require the engine to be at operating temperature first — warm oil flows and drains far more completely than cold oil.
Safety reminder from the videos: NEVER go under a car supported only by a floor jack. Always use jack stands or drive-up ramps. A floor jack is for lifting only — it is not a support device.
The Full Step-by-Step Procedure
Japanese mechanic videos tend to follow a consistent sequence that has been refined through thousands of oil changes. Here is the procedure distilled from what the videos teach, covering the bottom-drain approach (with top-suction notes where relevant).
Step 1 — Warm up the engine. Drive the car gently for five to ten minutes, or let it idle, until it reaches normal operating temperature. Warm oil flows quickly and carries more contaminants out with it. Do not drain a cold engine.
Step 2 — Secure the car safely. Turn off the engine and let it sit for two to three minutes (so oil drains back into the pan and the exhaust cools slightly). If using the bottom-drain method, drive up onto ramps or raise the car with a floor jack and immediately place jack stands under the manufacturer-specified jacking points. Chock the wheels. Apply the parking brake.
Step 3 — Remove the oil filler cap. Loosening the cap on top of the engine first creates a small air pathway that helps oil flow out faster below. Set the cap somewhere clean so it does not fall into the engine bay.
Step 4 — Drain the old oil. Place the drain pan under the drain plug. Use your socket wrench to loosen the plug counter-clockwise — for the last few turns, use your fingers and be ready: the plug will suddenly come free and hot oil will rush out immediately. Keep your hand and arm to the side, not below the flow. Let the oil drain fully — five to ten minutes.
Top-suction alternative for steps 2–4: Insert the pump tube down the dipstick hole and pump out as much oil as possible. Then skip to step 5.
Step 5 — Replace the oil filter. Remove the old filter (have the drain pan nearby — it will spill oil). Wipe the filter mounting surface clean. Apply a thin film of fresh oil to the new filter's rubber gasket — this prevents the gasket from tearing during tightening and ensures a good seal. Thread the new filter on by hand until the gasket contacts the surface, then tighten by hand plus about three-quarters of a turn (or follow the filter manufacturer's instructions). Do not use the wrench to tighten — hand-tight is correct.
Step 6 — Reinstall the drain plug with a new washer. Fit a brand-new crush washer onto the drain plug. Thread it in by hand, then tighten to the manufacturer's specified torque — typically 25–45 Nm, but always verify in your owner's manual or a model-specific video. Use a torque wrench, not feel.
Step 7 — Refill with fresh oil. Lower the car if raised. Pour in approximately the correct quantity (minus a little) using a funnel. Replace the filler cap. Start the engine and let it idle for about thirty seconds. Check under the car immediately for any drips at the drain plug or filter.
Step 8 — Check the oil level. Turn off the engine. Wait two minutes for oil to settle. Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert fully, then pull again. The level should be between the MIN and MAX marks. Add small amounts if needed. Do not overfill — excess oil can foam and lose its lubricating properties.
Torque and Common Mistakes to Avoid
- •Use a new washer every time
- •Torque to spec with a torque wrench (25-45 Nm typical)
- •Inspect for leaks after tightening
- •Confirm oil refilled before starting engine
- •Check dipstick level before driving
- •Reusing the old washer
- •Overtightening by feel — stripping the pan threads
- •Forgetting to inspect for leaks after starting
- •Starting the engine without refilling oil
- •Overfilling past the MAX mark on the dipstick
The torque and 'what not to do' section of Japanese mechanic videos is often the most valuable — and the most entertaining, because even experienced mechanics show their own past mistakes.
Warning: Overtightening the drain plug is the single most common beginner error. It strips the threads on the oil pan — an expensive repair. Use a torque wrench. Typical drain plug torque: 25–45 Nm depending on vehicle. Check your manual.
Warning: Always use a new drain plug washer. The old aluminium washer has already been compressed and will not seal reliably. New washers cost only a few dozen yen each.
Warning: Never forget to refill with oil before starting the engine. Running an engine dry — even for five seconds — can cause catastrophic bearing damage. Double-check the filler cap is on before starting.
Other mistakes the videos highlight:
- Overtightening the oil filter with a wrench — the gasket crushes, making future removal nearly impossible and risking leaks.
- Forgetting to oil the new filter gasket — causes the rubber to tear or stick, leading to a leak.
- Using the wrong oil grade or quantity — always cross-reference the owner's manual, not just the old oil bottle.
- Not checking for leaks after the first start — take two minutes to look underneath before driving away.
- Overfilling the oil — the videos consistently warn that 'more is not better.' Stay between MIN and MAX on the dipstick.
Waste-Oil Disposal in Japan and Final Tips from the Videos
One of the most practically useful parts of Japanese mechanic videos is the segment on waste oil disposal, because this is genuinely more complicated than in some other countries. In Japan, you cannot simply pour used oil down the drain or put it in household rubbish. The videos typically cover three accepted methods.
Solidifying agent (凝固剤 / 固めるテンプル type products): Pour the solidifying powder or liquid into the used oil, stir, and let it set into a solid that can be wrapped and put in burnable rubbish (可燃ごみ). This is the most convenient home-disposal method and widely shown in videos.
Oil-absorbent material (廃油処理箱 / 廃油マット): Commercially available boxes or mats contain absorbent material. Pour the used oil in, seal the box, and dispose of it as burnable rubbish per your municipality's rules. Products like 'Pitwork 廃油処理箱' are commonly referenced in videos.
Bringing it to a shop or waste-oil collection point (持ち込み): Some car parts retailers (e.g. AutoBacs, Yellow Hat) and garages will accept used oil for free or a small fee if you bring it in your original drain pan or a sealed container. The videos recommend calling ahead to confirm. This is the cleanest option and what many experienced DIYers prefer.
The videos also consistently close with a few reminders worth repeating here: record your mileage and the date in a maintenance log; set a reminder for your next change (typically every 5,000–10,000 km depending on oil type and your driving conditions); and take a moment after your first successful DIY change to check for any slow drips at the next few drives. A small investment of attention now prevents big repair bills later.
DIY oil changes, done correctly and safely, are one of the most satisfying maintenance tasks you can perform. The Japanese mechanic video community has shared countless hours of practical knowledge — this article is just the starting point. Watch a few videos specific to your car model before you begin, gather your tools the day before, and enjoy the process.
Related reading
This article was prepared by the Car Care Lab editorial team for educational purposes, drawing on widely published service information, manufacturer guidance, and maintenance videos. Intervals, prices, and procedures are representative guides only — always follow your vehicle's owner's manual, and if you are unsure or the job affects safety-critical systems (brakes, steering, high-voltage EV components), have it done by a certified workshop.